A small bean that's perfect for chili, pink beans may have come to California during the Mission era. There, they're called "pinquitos," and around Santa Maria County, are required as a side dish to barbecued beef tri-tip roast. The beans make a superior broth and stay a little firm when cooked. Cook them simply, with onion, garlic, and some kind of fat. Add a bottle of beer to the pot and you have frijoles borrachos -- "drunken beans."